Friday, April 4, 2014

Let's Talk About Patterns

    Today I am going to start a conversation about patterns and later I will show you sewn garments as well. Sometimes making a pattern can be a daunting task, but altering one from and existing pattern should give us the confidence to make one ourselves later.
     If you have a Basic Block pattern for a standard size, you should have the dart under the bust toward the waist. Through a series of pictures, I would show you how to change this one dart pattern into a two darts pattern, and how to move the dart and change it into a "French dart" design.
    Here are the steps in making a French Dart pattern:
   This is your original pattern.

 You need to make a copy of it.

Next, you mark the location of the french dart at the side seam about 1 1/2 " above waist. It can be higher as well but not above bust level.
You would need to cut the pattern out, and through slash and spread method, close the original dart and open the french dart.

At the waist area the pattern is not even now, and needs to be "blended". You make a continuous, curved line that connects center front with side seam. The pattern would look like this. You would just need to add seam allowances.

A pattern that has two darts fits nicer to the body than one with one dart. It is very easy to turn a "one pattern dart" design  into a "two pattern dart" design. You would still need to make a copy of your original pattern which is your basic block. First, you mark the side dart then slash the line to the point of the original one.

 The pattern needs to be placed on two balance lines with the front matching the vertical line. After placing it with pins matching center front the second dart is open while the first gets smaller.
The pattern looks like this:
Now you can trace it, add seam allowance, and make a top design with two darts!
Next week I will show you a sewn muslin that has two darts, and later we would talk about sewn garments.
Stay tuned and start the pattern conversation.
Until next time....


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